
I drove to Limerick for a hospital appointment and came home through Adare, which added an hour and solved nothing and was completely the right decision.
Read →Letters from the Kerry foothills
Places I have been, ferrys I have taken, roads I have driven when nobody else was on them. Ireland is small enough to know well and still surprising every time.

I drove to Limerick for a hospital appointment and came home through Adare, which added an hour and solved nothing and was completely the right decision.
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West Cork is a long drive from here – nearly four hours – but I've made it several times over the years, and three places in particular I keep thinking about.
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Bríd had been telling me to go to Westport for two years. I'd been resisting on no very good grounds.
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After years watching guests arrive with wheelie cases for two nights, I've learned what actually needs to come with you.
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The cliffs were mostly fog. The village had three people in it by my count. I went anyway, and I'm glad I did.
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Three hours from home and no cars to speak of. I've been four times now and I still can't fully explain what pulls me back.
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The Valentia ferry takes about five minutes. You barely have time to zip your coat before you're there.
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I took the train from Killarney to Cork to see Donal before Christmas. It takes two hours and twenty minutes. I'd forgotten how much I like trains.
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Five nights in Dingle in November, and I barely saw another tourist. The harbour was quiet in a way that felt almost rude.
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The Healy Pass in October, and not another car in either direction – which should have felt lonely but didn't, quite.
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I drove to Kenmare on a Wednesday because I'd run out of stamps and because I wanted to, and those two reasons together felt sufficient.
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I went to Schull for the drive, which is a thing I do sometimes, and came home with a book I hadn't heard of and didn't need.
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